Yellow Jackets

Zeedman

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Wasps can be beneficial to the garden, so unless their location makes them a nuisance, I try to leave them alone. The long-bodied wasps (such as the paper wasps that build hanging honey-comb-like nests) are fairly docile unless disturbed. The short-bodies wasps though (such as hornets & yellow jackets) can be aggressive, attacking anything in the vicinity of their nest. Given that these wasps can have hundreds in the colony & can attack in large numbers, such a threat needs to be taken seriously - specially to those allergic to stings.

Chances are that if you or others are being stung frequently, there is one (or more) large nests nearby. With large numbers of wasps entering & leaving, you should be able to observe where they are coming from. I've had yellow jacket nests in ground hog burrows, in hollow logs (or hollow trees), and in cracks in my foundation.

The ground nests are easy to deal with. Go out at night (when the wasps are all in the nest) with rubbing alcohol, a heavy iron bucket or kettle, and a book of matches. Quickly douse the hole with a good amount of rubbing alcohol, throw a match into it, then quickly stomp the bucket over the hole, sealing it completely. The flames will consume the oxygen, and the heat & fumes will kill the nest.

Nests in structures have been more challenging. Nearly every year, I get a yellow jacket nest somewhere in my brick foundation. The best solution I've found so far is to use a shop vacuum - with a very long hose, and nozzle extensions. I prop up the nozzle just below the entrance hole, and turn the vacuum on about noon, when many of the wasps are out foraging. The wasps don't seem to recognize the nozzle as a threat; they can crawl out along the wall, but will be sucked in as they hover trying to land. Left on from noon to sunset, the vacuum will catch hundreds in a day... you won't believe how many wasps you have until you try this.

Note that while the wasps don't see the nozzle as a threat, they WILL see the vacuum as a threat - specially when the scent of the wasps already sucked in is being blown out by the vacuum exhaust. The first time I do this, the wasps will swarm around the vacuum. For this reason, it is best to turn the vacuum on & off remotely, using a long extension cord.

I prefer not to use poisons, and look for alternatives... but for those allergic to stings, poison (or the use of an exterminator) might be the only sensible avenue.

20160806_151804.jpg
 
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SPedigrees

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Get a small can of cat or dog food, use half, mix with fipronil and set where pets cannot reach. The yellow jackets will carry it back to the nest, in a week or two, the nest will be dead. Set out fresh each morning, they like it fresh.

I, too, will keep this in mind in the event that I'm ever unfortunate enough to have an underground nest of yellow jackets show up on my land. Thanks for the tip. It sounds like it would work.

(I can co-exist with a bees nest if it's in a remote part of the property, but wasps and hornets - nope, never. I normally avoid all use of poisons, but this is the one exception I make, for my own sanity and the health and well-being of the hubby.)
 
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majorcatfish

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you can trap all the drones you want, you need to kill the queen<s> otherwise your fighting a losing battle.. in the right condition a queen can produce 3000 eggs a year.....
 

Carol Dee

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Wasps can be beneficial to the garden, so unless their location makes them a nuisance, I try to leave them alone. The long-bodied wasps (such as the paper wasps that build hanging honey-comb-like nests) are fairly docile unless disturbed. The short-bodies wasps though (such as hornets & yellow jackets) can be aggressive, attacking anything in the vicinity of their nest. Given that these wasps can have hundreds in the colony & can attack in large numbers, such a threat needs to be taken seriously - specially to those allergic to stings.

Chances are that if you or others are being stung frequently, there is one (or more) large nests nearby. With large numbers of wasps entering & leaving, you should be able to observe where they are coming from. I've had yellow jacket nests in ground hog burrows, in hollow logs (or hollow trees), and in cracks in my foundation.

The ground nests are easy to deal with. Go out at night (when the wasps are all in the nest) with rubbing alcohol, a heavy iron bucket or kettle, and a book of matches. Quickly douse the hole with a good amount of rubbing alcohol, throw a match into it, then quickly stomp the bucket over the hole, sealing it completely. The flames will consume the oxygen, and the heat & fumes will kill the nest.

Nests in structures have been more challenging. Nearly every year, I get a yellow jacket nest somewhere in my brick foundation. The best solution I've found so far is to use a shop vacuum - with a very long hose, and nozzle extensions. I prop up the nozzle just below the entrance hole, and turn the vacuum on about noon, when many of the wasps are out foraging. The wasps don't seem to recognize the nozzle as a threat; they can crawl out along the wall, but will be sucked in as they hover trying to land. Left on from noon to sunset, the vacuum will catch hundreds in a day... you won't believe how many wasps you have until you try this.

Note that while the wasps don't see the nozzle as a threat, they WILL see the vacuum as a threat - specially when the scent of the wasps already sucked in is being blown out by the vacuum exhaust. The first time I do this, the wasps will swarm around the vacuum. For this reason, it is best to turn the vacuum on & off remotely, using a long extension cord.

I prefer not to use poisons, and look for alternatives... but for those allergic to stings, poison (or the use of an exterminator) might be the only sensible avenue.

View attachment 27703
Great advice / tips Zeedman
 

majorcatfish

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if you don't kill the queen, she will produce dozens of queens in late summer, they will overwinter and establish new nests the following year....
 
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