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As already mentioned, warm temperatures are the key for pepper germination. We used to have heat mats in the greenhouses for those nitpicky seeds. Like large heating pads. I'm not sure how safe it is to use a home heating pad, but you can probably look at some horticultural supply places for...

Lucky duck!

What are your summer temperatures and humidities. Remember though your growing season is long, many tomatoes will stop producing fruit usually around 85-90 degrees, especially if the humidity is low. For this reason you want to be looking specifically for heat set tomatoes if you are wanting...

You should not be seeing any more trouble from late blight once it warms up and dries out. Late blight likes it cool and moist.

As it turns out you have Early Blight (Alternaria solani), a common fungal pathogen of tomatoes. Hallmark is the dark lesion concentric rings of growth. The spores often overwinter in infected debris or soil. Once the initial infection occurs and begins to sporulate the spores can be carried...

I would never eat a solanacea that I did not 100% know the identity.

I think it's just from your environmental conditions. It should clear up as soon as the weather warms and the sun comes out. Could be that all the rain has limited some nutrient uptake. I'd just wait it out. Doesn't look like disease or pests to me.

It's possible that if the plastic was left on it's not able to wick up enough moisture from just the "rotted out" bottom. So it is in effect "in a pot" in the ground if that makes sense. And if he didn't unwrap the top then no water gets in except what can be wicked up from the bottom...

Too much humidity is probably your problem. Makes the pollen too sticky to get to the stigma. Once the humidity goes back to normal you'll most likely see fruit set.

What have the daytime/night time temps been when they were blooming? Also if humidity it too high this can hamper pollination. Are the plants in an area sheltered from the wind?

Oh and you can grow basil, thyme, or marigolds around the bottom and kill 2 birds with one stone.

Sure, you can grow tomatoes in pots. Make sure you get a very big pot. And make sure you water regularly. Especially when the plants have ripe or almost ripe fruit on them. If you let the plants drought out too much, and then give them a big ol' drink the fruit will split. It's best to...

I have my herbs here there and everywhere. The garden has sage, basil, and will have at least chamomile. I'll plant my peppermint in a very large pot, and I plan to put the rosemary in the center of the peppermint just for visual height. I will put my lemongrass and thyme in another large...

Now realize everyone that I am only referring to tomatoes here! You need to harden your other types of plants by putting them in a sheltered area outside for a few days. Then move them to a place that's a little bit sunnier for a few days.... They then should be ready to go into the garden.

Farmer's in the olden days (roflmao!) would put a collar of aluminum foil around the stem of the plant about an 1" below soil level and about 3"above soil level. Always seemed to work for us.

Oooo a few nice thymes there too!

I've even grown that light green/chartreuse which one would logically assume might only grow in the shade. Most important thing is to harden them off to the sun before transplanting. Can't just take them directly from the shade to the full sun. We would just put them in a wagon or something...

Yeah spread the seeds where you want them when they ripen in the pods. Of if you want to harvest the seed and freeze it, the rule of thumb is to plant "poppies in the snow". If it doesn't snow in your area, then a really cold time.

You could try looking for an imidicloprid soil amendment for your plants (one is Bayer tree and shrub). It's an insecticide that you put in the soil and is translocated up to the leaves. Very effective, but look on the label and make sure they say for whiteflies. In the greenhouse we used...

Definitely just sunburn.