Roughed the Tankless in~

valley ranch

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The two gang box I'll surface mount to the door that will be roughed in the laundry room. The wire taped to the wall services the remote, the two gang has room for a light switch, I'll put a light or two. The exterior door will be closed off, in the final. All the water you want, too hot for a bath without cooling with cold water. Maybe you can see the exhaust vent is ABS, the venting air is that cool!
 

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valley ranch

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Haven't installed the pipe from the Heat and pressure valve or the condensate, but the valve can be seen pointing down. The exhaust vent raises 2' above the roof, I plan to put two 90degree Ells to point it down , to exclude birds and other things. If you've a better idea, something you've done that works well, please speak up.
 
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Ridgerunner

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Once when I snaked out a toilet that was completely plugged I pulled a bird out. It had obviously gone down the vent pipe. I never did block that vent off and it hasn't been a problem since, but yeah. You would not want a bird in that vent. I don't know what diameter that pipe is. You could probably get something commercial but maybe form a cage or guard of some kind out of wire. If birds are all you are after, 1/2" or even 1/4" hardware cloth should work. If you use window screen to keep bugs, bees, and wasps out maybe form a cage instead of something straight across the end of the pipe to give more surface area so you don't restrict the air flow through that small mesh. You should not have that much lint coming out of it, not like a dryer vent.

I haven't used one of those inline heaters for about 40 years when I was in England. A friend had a cold water flat and installed one of those so he could take a shower. That thing was pitiful, a trickle of lukewarm water. They've obviously made some big strides in the design since. Some days you just need a good hot shower.
 

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They, those who install them, talk about leaving them, the vent, open~saying: people have put wire over the end but it freezes over with moisture and shuts down the unit.

The diameter is 3".
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I have no idea why this is underlined!

When I first hooked this up the water was hot__But not very! The remote showed an error code 13. Gas problem. I had used flex to complete the Propane line, the valve necks down below 1/2" inch. I cancled the flex and completed it solid black pipe, That eliminated the error code and the water is too hot to fill a tub with unless you add cold.

The same would be true of the one you experienced in England~ether the gas or electric was less, the burner was fouled and/or the pipe in the heat exchanger had build up.

We have a small tankless up here in the mountains, works well.



Like to hear a Story about England, something you experienced 40 some odd years ago, if and when you've time, to start a thread.


 

valley ranch

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Ridgerunner, Here's how I addressed the vent opening, I cut these end pieces from a direct vent kit. I couldn't use direct vent because the tankless is on the side of the house of prevailing winds. That should keep the birds out.
 

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bobm

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They, those who install them, talk about leaving them, the vent, open~saying: people have put wire over the end but it freezes over with moisture and shuts down the unit.

The diameter is 3".
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have no idea why this is underlined!

When I first hooked this up the water was hot__But not very! The remote showed an error code 13. Gas problem. I had used flex to complete the Propane line, the valve necks down below 1/2" inch. I cancled the flex and completed it solid black pipe, That eliminated the error code and the water is too hot to fill a tub with unless you add cold.

The same would be true of the one you experienced in England~ether the gas or electric was less, the burner was fouled and/or the pipe in the heat exchanger had build up.

We have a small tankless up here in the mountains, works well.



Like to hear a Story about England, something you experienced 40 some odd years ago, if and when you've time, to start a thread.

The 90* exhaust line elbows would not pass inspection in my neck of the woods. They have to be 45* . On my house, I have the exhaust pipe coming out of the side of the house so the code calls for line to have a elbow on the end with a 16" pipe extention facing downwards with a screen on the end to keep insects out. Also, the electric wire has to be inside the sheetrock and stapled to the studs or if outside the sheetrock ,in a conduit. The electrical box has to be firmly attached to the stud or to the sheetrock and have a cover plate.
 
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valley ranch

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Greetings bob, This a powered vent, fan driven. I like the idea or a couple 45s though. The 90 degree on the intake is of my choosing and isn't frowned on by code.

I couldn't use a direct vent as you say you have on your house, as this is the windy side, it causes a problem say Rheem techs. I had intended to have two 90s on the exhaust but decided to do this as it is proscribed, have a look see at this video. I didn't use this method as this space is vented, I decided to exhaust through the existing flashing on the roof with the intake drawing air through the vent used by the heater that was replaced. Daughter did hand me the 45s when we were at Lowes, wish I had taken them now, would have looked better, but.

RidgeRunner, No, won't keep the rain out any more that the rest of the vent on the roof that are also open and facing up, I had intended to put two 90s and have it facing down, but I did as they suggest, this time, because~here with the prevailing winds the water heaters get blown out when winds are high, the guys who plum out here say:;It's the shape of the roofs like a hydra foil, an airplain wing, as the high winds raise going over the roof it creates lift that pulls air up the exhaust and the pilot flame with it. They say by extending the vents up to two feet above the roof, you're laughing. In any case this heater has no pilot flame, I extended the vent up to two foot above the roof, just because. I ran the heat/pressure dump to the up vent in the water heater compartment, the condensate as well.

I like the set up, wifey will want an inspection door inside the laundry room, if I do that I'll seal off the outside door, that wouldn't fly except the compartment has it's own up vent.
I'll buy it.
Code here is different that up the mountain, they use Pex here, Pex may be acceptable on the mountain, today~not sure.

This tankless puts out more hot water than the smaller unit we have in the mountains.

 
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bobm

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I have a 90degree I intended to put on the exhaust, if it were you~would you put a 90 up there facing away from prevailing winds?
Since you have no pilot flame, what does the code call for or allows then up to you. Also, consider with the updraft from the prevailing winds, that also sucks up heat from the coils that could keep the the coils cooler, therefore not be as efficient in heating the water. I would try it first by not glueing down the elbow so that you could turn it or replace it with a 45*.
 

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