Bradford Pear Not Doing So Good

[vfem]

We had 2 bradford pears in our front yard when we moved here. The first month we lost several limbs from one from a storm, and what was left was hovering over my car. Needless to say, it became a pile of firewood.

Now the 2nd tree, the ONLY one left on the front of the property had become more and more droopy and losing leaves through out the summer. The leaves are purple and red and look burnt. My neighbors told us that the month we were closing on the house it was hit by lightening?! I'm not sure how true that is, but it is in bad shape.

Now, I'm hoping its just from the heat and its dry. I threw some plant tone around the base last week and gave it a good 5 minute water. I'm planning again on watering it today and giving it more plant tone next week with another water.

Do you think it has a chance to come back next spring, or should I just let hubby take a chain saw to this one too?! I'd really love to save it, so I'll take anymore suggestions I can get?!

 

[unclejoe]

vfem, I've had a small tree care co. for 25yrs here in Pa. Bradford pears are notorious for splitting in heavy storms or any high wind situation. If you look at the point where 1 main stem becomes 2 you will probably see a crack instead of a smooth, sealed transition. Over the years water continuously seeps into that crack and weakens the wood. On average, I remove 5-6 every year that succumb to the wind.
As far as the lightning goes, I'm skeptical. When lighting strikes a tree the heat boils the water inside. When the water boils it expands and leaves some sign. Sometimes just a split in the bark or in extreme cases the wood will literally explode into splinters.
As far as the changing leaves, this could be drought
stress. A tree will shed it's leaves to conserve moisture but without being able to see it I can't say this is your problem. Cut off a small twig with 5-6 leaves on it and take to a local garden center. Don't go to a nationwide chain. The staff usually turns over frequently and may not be as informed in the diagnosis of tree problems as your local mom & pop shop that wants to make sure you keep coming back.

Your tree could also need a pruning. Thinning it out or having it done by a professional will reduce its wind resistance. If you really want to add a little more insurance, have a cable installed. When the 50mph winds hit, the cable will help keep it from splitting.
Hope this helps.
Joe

PS HIDE THE CHAINSAW!!!!!!!!!!

 

[beefy]

i have one of those that sounds a lot like yours too. the older limbs tend to die and it puts out new suckerlike growth where the base of the limbs are. i lose about a third of the tree each year. i think it would have really benefited had i watered it this summer.

******edit: oh wait nevermind mine is a Bartlett pear, not a bradford. i hate bradford pears.

 

[patandchickens]

Agree it doesn't sound like lightning.

My first guess would be "eventual result of several really badly droughty years in a row".

I wouldn't fertilize it but I guess it's too late for that (DON'T fertilize it any more, though!). Frankly this time of year I would be leery of watering, either (you do not want it to put energy into weak, late-season growth that will just die off over the winter). But, if you think it's thirsty (and it is possible it needs watering), I'd suggest digging a small hole someplace under the dripline of the tree (i.e. directly below the tippy ends of the longest branches). If you hit a root, apologize to it and go around it. Purpose of hole is to determine exactly how dry the soil is.

Dig down like 12-18" (fill it up again right afterwards of course!). What is the soil like? If it is crumbly dry down there, I'd water. Not just for five minutes (five minutes is not enough even for a newly-planted sapling, nevermind a real-sized tree)... you want to get LOTS AND LOTS of water on there. Pick a still day, preferably cloudy, and use a sprinkler so you can adequately measure how much water you're puttting on using an empty can. You want to wet the entire area around the tree, about twice as far out as the dripline (so if the tree is 15' wide, you need to water a 30' circle -- it might require relocating the sprinkler a couple times).

Let the sprinkler run til you have roughly 3/4". Then do the same again the next day. Maybe even a third day, if the soil was really dry. If the soil was really dry and you don't get much rain, you might want to repeat this next week. Then, personally, I would call it a good effort and leave the tree to its own devices.

Good luck,

Pat

 

[vfem]

THANK GOODNESS!

I was starting to think no one knew

My husband was going to chainsaw it, I just talked to him and he'll trim it back and I'm going to test the water for a good watering this week. I even mentioned the cable.

Personally, I am NOT a fan of these trees at all. BUT as its the only tree in our yard left I will love it. It attracts wildlife and give the only tiny bit of shade my daughter and I have to play under in the yard... so its a wanted tree

I will let everyone know how it goes in the spring (I will wait to fertilize again then.)

This fall I'm planting on planting some trees, but only a weeping willow by the pond, and some actually fruit trees by the edge of the property in the back.

THANKS AGAIN!

 

[unclejoe]

DON"T let him trim it back the way the power co. does unless the ends of all the limbs are dying back!!!
When you do that you'll end up with 6 new shoots at every end you cut off. This in turn will make the ends thicker and heavier compounding the problem of wind damage. Go through the inside of the tree with a handsaw and a pair of hand pruners. Remove the small " suckers" with the pruners, and use the saw to remove some of the larger (not too large) limbs that are growing inside but not making it to the outside of the canopy. This will reduce the wind resistance and redirect the trees energy to the outer canopy where it is better utilized Good Luck.

Joe

 

[beefy]

i wonder if it was planted too deeply when it was planted?


plant a riverbirch. it will be making shade this time next year.