Marianna's Peace Tomatoes

[OaklandCityFarmer]

You may have more than one thing going on. It's hard to say.

Regular sulfur not lime sulfur, IME, is better for use on tomatoes against wilt.

I should say this now also, if you plan on growing tomatoes in the same spot next year I would recommend solarizing the soil after harvest to kill of most fungal diseases in the soil. This helps even the playing field and gives tomatoes a fighting chance for next year.

 

[Backyard Buddies]

Thanks for the clarification on the sulfur. I'll pick some up today.

I don't plan on growing in the same location again next year. I usually rotate between 3 different beds, so I shouldn't be planting tomatoes there until Spring 2011. But, this also means that I haven't grown tomatoes in that spot since 2005, but I still ended up with this problem. Should I solarize anyway as a precaution?

 

[Tutter]

Disease aside, tomatoes are one of the very few vegetables which do not need the same rotation that others do. They like being planted in the same spot, for a while at least, and I try to compost their bodies into compost which will go back into their beds.

Mind you, if there was an insect/disease issue, things would be different.

 

[OaklandCityFarmer]

Disease aside, tomatoes are one of the very few vegetables which do not need the same rotation that others do. They like being planted in the same spot, for a while at least, and I try to compost their bodies into compost which will go back into their beds.

Mind you, if there was an insect/disease issue, things would be different.

Exactly. We usually plant ours in the same spot every year and solarize if there was disease.

I would solarize just as a precaution. After solarizing plant a cover crop and even apply some nematodes. This helps get your soil healthier for next growing season.

 

[Backyard Buddies]

Really?!! Everything I've read always recommended to plant in different beds each year. Given the size of my garden, it'd sure be easier if I could grow them in the same spot each year.

OK, stopped off and got some sulfur. I was expecting there to be sulfur spray, but none was to be found. So, I picked up a bag of Organic Traditions Garden Sulfur (guaranteed to be 90% sulfur, doesn't say what the other part is), the ONLY sulfur in the *orange* store. There are only directions for sprinkling as a plant food or as a soil acidifier, but no directions for spraying. Will this work to mix with water? And if so, at what measurements?

 

[OaklandCityFarmer]

Really?!! Everything I've read always recommended to plant in different beds each year. Given the size of my garden, it'd sure be easier if I could grow them in the same spot each year.

OK, stopped off and got some sulfur. I was expecting there to be sulfur spray, but none was to be found. So, I picked up a bag of Organic Traditions Garden Sulfur (guaranteed to be 90% sulfur, doesn't say what the other part is), the ONLY sulfur in the *orange* store. There are only directions for sprinkling as a plant food or as a soil acidifier, but no directions for spraying. Will this work to mix with water? And if so, at what measurements?

Just sprinkle it on the plants and give them an even light coat. Careful not to use it on too hot days because it can burn them (above 95). You can use a nylon pantyhose to sprinkle it on. If you have a powder applicator it's the best because then you can get all parts of the plant evenly but it's not necessary.

 

[Backyard Buddies]

I'm not sure it'd stay on the plants. It feels like tiny little pellets, not powdery.

 

[Backyard Buddies]

OK, I've been doing a load of reading. What I bought is specifically called Sulfur (S) or Elemental Sulfur. I believe what you're talking about is either the sulfur already made into a spray, made into a concentrate, or the Sulfur (W) or wetable sulfur, right?

The sulfur I have is meant to lower the Ph of soil and can be used for hydrangeas and for other acid lovers like blueberries.

So, even though it's the right stuff, it's in the wrong form to use for the purpose for which I need it.

After taking this back, I'll have to go to a proper nursery, me thinks. Live (and read!) and learn, I guess.

 

[OaklandCityFarmer]

OK, I've been doing a load of reading. What I bought is specifically called Sulfur (S) or Elemental Sulfur. I believe what you're talking about is either the sulfur already made into a spray, made into a concentrate, or the Sulfur (W) or wetable sulfur, right?

The sulfur I have is meant to lower the Ph of soil and can be used for hydrangeas and for other acid lovers like blueberries.

So, even though it's the right stuff, it's in the wrong form to use for the purpose for which I need it.

After taking this back, I'll have to go to a proper nursery, me thinks. Live (and read!) and learn, I guess.

Ah, yes. I'm sorry I didn't make that distinction earlier. Oops. Have any hydrangeas?

Wetable sulfur is usually how we get it.

 

[Backyard Buddies]

Unfortunately, no. So, I'll just have to take it back to the *orange store* and get my money back. They didn't have anything else that would work so I'll have to go to a nursery.

Have you ever used chamomile tea as a fungicide?
http://www.weekendgardener.net/plant-propagation/chamomile-tea-030803.htm

I have chamomile growing all over my yard. The stuff is so pretty, but it's really like a weed. Once you plant it, it comes up all over the place!