Mass- Does anyone know anyone who designs and plans vegatable gardens?

[EloisetheChicken]

Hi, I am looking for a designer to plan a vegatable/ fruit tree garden on about 1/2 acre of land in Brookfield, MA. I need someone who knows light and soil needs and who has good design sense. This plan is to be put into action next year, right now the land is overgrown. But I thought if I start looking for someone now and develop a plan. I can start to prepare the space in the fall.

 

[Suess]

I don't know anyone, but I wanted to say thanks for a new idea of what I'd like to do for the rest of my life...that sounds like a great job!

 

[EloisetheChicken]

It does sound like a great job..if you know how to do it.
I don't....and don't want to spend years making mistakes.
It seems more cost effective to pay someone who knows where to plant things for max. results.

 

[silkiechicken]

Interesting idea. With most the crops I grow, I rotate them annually so nothing is in the same place year after year, and I try to keep 2-3 years separation between each area and what I grow there. That way not only one nutrient is used up and different plants can give back to the soil what others take, in addition to staving off bacteria and disease that can build up when you plant the same plant in the same place year after year.

One thing I keep in mind when I move things from plot to plot, is if I am growing a high nitrogen feeder like corn or zucchini, I won't do a rotation with only corn, zucchini, and like tomatoes, but rather switch in a bean or pea. Phosphorous is usually the limiting reagent here though. On the east cost, many books are written based on the soils on that side, so I say be creative and go for it on your own! Toss down a ton of compost the fall before and till it in. Start planting away early spring and though fall with crops for each season. It's more than what a paid person could do in one visit, as it's a year long thing if you want to make the most of what you have. A great learning experience too.

 

[DrakeMaiden]

I have to agree with silkiechicken. Unless you want to hire a full-time gardener, you might look into it yourself. I'd get a copy of The Four Season Harvest by Eliott Coleman. He lives and farms in Maine, so what he says would certainly apply to your situation. He describes crop rotation and some placement considerations that you will most likely find useful.

 

[EloisetheChicken]

I understand crop rotation. I think what I am looking for is someone to help me lay out the land usage and tell me the best place to plant blueberries and raspberries and a couple of apple trees. Also things like rubarb and asparagus........where they should go.........and then where to place the rotating crops. I have about a 1/2 acre to work with and want a long term garden. With my light conditions, I don't know where to plant trees etc. Would photographs of the land help?

 

[silkiechicken]

Just plant the trees and "forever" stuff at the "back" of the area where they won't shade the annuals. Like on the northern most part of your garden. Either way, you'll probably have to amend the local soil per what you are putting in as blue berries won't like the same soil as your apple trees and so on. A landscaper is probably what you want if you are going for an artistic type of yard. It's pretty homely looking out here with things in rows and blocks. Just by looking at the dirt, might not tell it's whole story so some times it is touch and go.

 

[patandchickens]

It does sound like a great job..if you know how to do it.
I don't....and don't want to spend years making mistakes.
It seems more cost effective to pay someone who knows where to plant things for max. results.

Gardening *consists of* years of making mistakes, how else can you learn things?

Put the fruit trees/bushes at the edge(s), don't run the veg beds right up under the fruit trees (working the soil would disturb the trees roots). Full or nearly full sun; protected from very harsh winter winds. Insofar as possible put the tall veggies at the back or upwind side of the plot depending on your site's idiosyncrasies. Put perennial veggies (asparagus, rhubarb) in a separate bed(s) so they don't get disturbed by the annual messin' around with the soil for the rest of the veggies.

Beyond that, since you are going to have to move the veggies every year ANYhow, and since most of the information you'll need to decide what goes where will ALSO be necessary in order to properly grow the stuff up (prepare/plant/maintain/troubleshoot/harvest), you are pretty much going to HAVE to learn that stuff anyhow. So may as well start now and save a chunk o change There are books a-plenty with diagrams and photos, also you can take a walk around neighborhoods where the veg gardens are visible from the sidewalk (which will also tend to be neighborhoods where the gardens are truly productive).

Not really trying to discourage you from putting money in some garden designer's pocket if you so desire, but it's just that you can't depend on that to produce a particularly useful veg garden. It is something like 10% planning, 90% execution and maintenance, you know?

Sure, post photos and we can certainly offer ideas.

Good luck,

Pat

 

[EloisetheChicken]

I'll get some photos up tomorrow. Thanks for the input so far.

 

[Rosalind]

Agree w/Pat, even if you hire someone who knows their stuff, your own patch of dirt will have its own unique attributes. I considered myself a pretty decent gardener with many years of experience, and then I tried to start a garden in Massachusetts. Darn if I haven't had to plant the whole thing three times over to get it right, and it's still not done properly the way I want it. Even the one guy I hired to do the rototilling, who was local and supposedly knew his stuff, didn't know this particular stuff, so I ended up with way more weeds than I ever should have had to pull.

You know what worked? Touring the historical gardens and visiting open houses for CSAs. When I saw what they were doing, I realized what I was doing wrong. Best advice I have for you is this: try to grow as much vertically as you can. If it's a wet summer, like this year, your crop stays off the ground and won't rot. Squash plants won't be as susceptible to mildews. If it's a dry summer, it's easy enough to mulch around trellised plants.

Also, fence. You know those decorative picket and twiggy fences around the historical gardens at OSV and Plimoth Plantation and The House Of Seven Gables? They are functional. Their function is to keep the rabbits and deer at bay. Very very important.