garden tillers

[elf]

Bought a fullsize reartine tiller - Cub Cadet RT 65. Has reverse tine action for breaking new ground. Very easy to start. Love everything about it, except one thing. When tilling new ground you have to push it hard, except if going downhill. Don't know if I'd rather be worn out from a bone-shaker or from pushing. Can't decide whether to take back, and if so what to get. Does anyone know if the pushing requirement is typical of all reverse tine tillers or just Cub Cadet, or did I get a lemon?( Does anyone own a RT 65 that doesn't have to be pushed? ) Any other brands that you like for pretty large areas of rough ground? Needs to be an easy to start ,walk-behind full-size that can be operated by a small woman. Has anyone tried the DR earthquake? I love their brushcutter, but would hate to order the tiller and have to ship it back. I find reviews for their pull behind and their minitiller, but not their midsize (earthquake). This is not to be confused with the Ardasam Earthquake. (I read reviews that some have parts that break and its hard to find parts and people that service them.) Also, if anyone here lives in Athens/Winterville Ga. area, if you have one you think I'd like to try, I'll come give you up to 30 min. of supervised tilling time to get to try it. No Troy-bilts. Esp. interested in DR Earthquake or Craftsman reversetine . No minis - I have a Mantis. Thanks.

edit - Problem solved. Depth stake had been put on backwards. I shall look no further, as it suits my current needs fine. Thanks all.

 

[stano40]

I have a very old troy-bilt rototiller that if I could afford to buy another I would set this one on fire.

My dream is to get a BCS rototiller. To me it's the Cadillac of rototillers.

Home:
http://www.bcs-america.com/

BSC tiller page.

http://www.bcs-america.com/tiller_details.cqs?catid=d0ceb4ea9bdbfe2a07d5d9be01a12287

bob

 

[ducks4you]

DO you have a piece that you lower for final/deep tilling? Mine does. You're supposed to make several passes with this piece up when breaking up new ground. If you do, then lower it for the final pass, it will till the soil very finely for you. The ONLY reason I know about mine is because I always forget to lower it!! I spend an afternoon following my tiler around--everyone asks, "Are you DONE, YET?!?!?!?"

**edit**
DRAG BAR--Thanks, digitS' --THAT's what it's called!!

 

[digitS']

I have a Craftsman 850, dual rotating tines. Your Cub Cadet and this one both have about the same size engine - 200cc, as best as I understand.

I don't have to push it and certainly not when the tines are in forward but not even when it is shifted to reverse rotation. However, it doesn't handle a slope well.

I should say that my gardens are so level that I didn't even know I had a slope until I drove the previous Craftsman over it. No slipping backwards or rolling forward but running with the slope causes it to drift off to the side. I hate to imagine what it would do, or not do, on a side hill.

My soil is exceedingly rocky! I have to take it real easy with the tiller to avoid problems . . . and, carry a pocket full of shear pins :/. Elf, do you have wet, slippery soil? Could that contribute to the lack of traction.

The drag bar on the Craftsman is only supposed to be used when the tines are running forward - it is essential at that time. That drag would be a real problem with the tines running in reverse. Yes, it would stop the tiller dead in the ground.

Steve

 

[seedcorn]

If you are pushing it, something is wrong. They pull themselves with their tines. Would guess you don't have depth gauge set correctly so it's digging itself in.

On sand, the earthquake is a piece of crap. Rented one, hated every second it was on place. Bought a MTD reartine--MTD owns cub cadet. Except for color can't tell them apart as I have my dad's cub right beside my mtd.......paint is only difference.

 

[elf]

Seedcorn, do you remember if the one you rented was an Earthquake by Ardasam or DR's model that they call the Earthquake ( makes things confusing, doesn't it?)? I just love my DR. brushcutter. It speeds through anything you can stand to be drug through, so I was hoping all their products would be that good. My Cub has a depth stake that I have tried at low and high. Still needs pushing. It does do better, of course, when the ground is drier. I failed to mention this was a return. Tractor Supply advertised a sale on Cadets, so I got there early and all they had was the one returned one (used). Hoping it was just a "weekend rental", we got them to knock off a hundred $ and got an extended warranty. Called the store and manager said some had been returned with tines on wrong, so I thought I'd try to change them. But when I looked under one at HD, they looked like mine, so I figured that's how they're supposed to be. Maybe not. They're not bilaterally symmetrical. Thinking I'll take it back, since you guys say you shouldn't have to push. There was one review online of a Cadet owner who complained of having to push, but only one. Any of the rest of you have one with that problem?

 

[seedcorn]

You should have a forward tine, reverse tine, forward, reverse, and neutral, correct? More I thought about it, your transmission on your wheels aren't working. When you put it in forward (tines disingaged), it should walk anywhere you want to go. It really is an outstanding machine, very easy to work on, get the transmission fixed, enjoy.

Check your belts......wonder if they were put on wrong.

Sorry, I just remember it was an earthquake, thought that was company that made it. I just remember hating every second it was on place, thankfully it was rental and not a purchase.

 

[HunkieDorie23]

I have a really old Troy Built (Pony I think, medium size one), that runs great after it is started, unfortunately it only wants to start for my husband. It has this creepy thing for him and won't start for anyone else. Even if one of the boys try to start it for me she breaks her string. she break her string for me too. Not kidding it is weird. I would recommend it too anyone, mine is just very old.

 

[digitS']

I'm not the most mechanically minded . . . (but all my machines like me )

My reartine has 2 bars:

1st is bent back and does no more than control depth, trailing along.

2nd is a sharp blade into the ground. With any pressure, it penetrates and slows the tiller's forward movement.

If I forget to punch that 2nd drag bar down when the tines are set on forward -- the tiller and operator are shot forward at about 10mph!!

If I forget to lift that 2nd drag bar when the tines are set on reverse -- the tiller and operator are frozen in place . . . surrounded by noise and gas fumes!

The 1st, the depth control bar, gets little attention since I'm usually using the tiller where a large tractor has been earlier in the season. I can't gain any more depth than that machine achieved. I could mine my garden for rocks. There are gravel pits only a mile or so from all of my gardens. I really see no difference in the what those outfits call "overburden" and what the rest of us call "top and subsoil."

Steve

 

[ducks4you]

OMGosh--this thread reminded me to till last night!! TOO FUNNY!!
Here is my tiller~
http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_14102_91370_54970_-1

It's a middle-of-the-road tiller. I check/change my oil, ALWAYS put it in the shed at night, and treat it like it's made of gold--I need this to last for a long time. WHERE I had to till was an 5 yr old aged manure pile, NOW black dirt. I had tilled there last month, BUT the horses love to roll on it, so I had to till it again, so that I could shovel it easier.
BTW, I paid, $641.00 for it, and now it's priced at $699.00--Troy Built doesn't know we're in a recession!!