Outdoor straw cold frame or Indoor fluorescents?

ABHanna4d

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I have all my seedlings in my loft under fluorescents but I was considering now that it is slightly warming up to move them outside in a cold frame.
Ive heard of using straw bales to set up a 3 sided wall and then put plastic in a frame over the bales...a cheaper option than buying a greenhouse, but less expensive than running the electricity all day everyday for the seedlings. Id probably do 3 bales along the back and then 1 bale on each side. I have 11 trays of seeds.
Is this a good idea?? Or should I just leave them in the warm loft under the lights?
 

HunkieDorie23

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This is good question because I have mine inside. I have really been wanting a cold frame but I'm not sure how to use one. What temps will they keep? This week we are in the 50's daytime (tomorrow high 40's with low's in the 30's. Do you have to harden plants before you move them into a cold frame? I start my seedlings inside then move them into small pots and eventually run out of space and really get stress waiting until I can start to plant.
 

ABHanna4d

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HunkieDorie23 said:
This is good question because I have mine inside. I have really been wanting a cold frame but I'm not sure how to use one. What temps will they keep? This week we are in the 50's daytime (tomorrow high 40's with low's in the 30's. Do you have to harden plants before you move them into a cold frame? I start my seedlings inside then move them into small pots and eventually run out of space and really get stress waiting until I can start to plant.
The temperature is one of my concerns too! I don't want to kill the 150+ seeds I've started, but I'm also concerned about the space In the last week before planting! And the $$$ being spent on lighting would be nice to save
 

lesa

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I love cold frames! If you already have seeds started inside you must harden off. If you plant directly in the cold frame- they are pre-hardened off...Try putting a thermometer in the cold frame, so you can better judge your seedlings needs. Most important is venting- you will fry your plants very fast, if you don't remember to vent the frame. You will be amazed how warm the cold frame will get, with a sunny day. If your nights are above freezing, I would plant most things right in the frame. This would not be true for things that are delicate, like tomatoes and peppers that require a very warm soil temp. Give it a try, I think you will like it!!
 

ABHanna4d

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ducks4you said:
Straw bales make an excellent insulator. Don't burn or throw them away when you're done--use them in the garden!!
That is a great point!! I wasn't wanting to spent the money on a cold frame, but when we considered using straw we got excitted because we are wanting to use neswpaper and straw as mulch in the garden, so If we are going to buy the straw anyway then we might as well buy It early and let it serve 2 purposes.
 

ABHanna4d

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lesa said:
I love cold frames! If you already have seeds started inside you must harden off. If you plant directly in the cold frame- they are pre-hardened off...Try putting a thermometer in the cold frame, so you can better judge your seedlings needs. Most important is venting- you will fry your plants very fast, if you don't remember to vent the frame. You will be amazed how warm the cold frame will get, with a sunny day. If your nights are above freezing, I would plant most things right in the frame. This would not be true for things that are delicate, like tomatoes and peppers that require a very warm soil temp. Give it a try, I think you will like it!!
How does hardening off work? Ive always just waited till after last frost to take anything outside.
If I plant directly in the cold frame, do you mean In the ground, or should I still use pots & trays?
Oh and what temp do I want in my cold frame?
And what Is the best ways to vent? In a straw cold frame? Do I just want to prop It open slightly on sunny days?
 

lesa

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Hardening off is the process of getting plants used to the outside world- sun, wind, rain, etc. You can start this process anytime it is nice out. Best to start in a shady, protected area for a few hours at a time. Work your way up to full sun.
When I say "plant in the cold frame", I do mean in pots, etc. I should have said "start seeds" in the cold frame. You don't want it to go below freezing in your frame, and you don't want it 90 degrees. Propping or removing the window on really nice days works great.

If you have 100's of plants, I would recommend trying some of them outside. See how you do with it- this way you don't risk all your hard work...
I think straw would work fine- I use wooden boxes, drawers, whatever I have on hand. Cover with old windows... I started all my garden plants this way, last year and was thrilled with the result. I also started a lot of cool weather crops directly in the garden. Don't be afraid to direct sow, lettuce, beets, cabbage, broccoli, etc.
 

HunkieDorie23

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I am very good at hardening off NOW. My first attempt at hardening killed 70 tomato plants. Now I am an expert.

I use my front porch, it is facing west and only gets sun in the evening. I put them out on a nice warmish day (60's) for an hour or two. Bring them in, do this for 2-3 days, then start leaving them out for longer periods until you can leave them out all night. You can harden with high temps in the 50 I just don't start with these temps.

I don't even put them in the sun until they can stay out all day then I set them on the edge of the porch which get sun for the last 3-4 hours of the day. Do not leave them out if it gets into the 30's. Once the are harden and you plant them in the garden and it gets to 38... well OK, but don't do it during the hardening you are still babying these guys.

Also watch for extreme wind. If it is going to be really windy make sure they have protection. I usually harden for 2 wks before I consider the "grown up" enough to be outside.
 

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