- Sep 4, 2009
- Reaction score
I think everybody should consider their own solutsions, BUT You Obviously have not had to deal with a broken piece of rebar/metal fencepost that cannot be removed from cement. I had several of these that I dug down 2 1/2 ft, then dragged with my diesel truck, so that my horses wouldn't injure themselves. I dragged them to the front yard, and turned them upside down so that the metal was stuck into the ground to rust, and the cement mound stuck up.Concrete reinforcement wire makes great tomato cages; strong, not exceptionally heavy, and they last forever. They do rust - but that won't even show once the cage is covered by foliage. I've used them in the past, and still have a couple (which are currently protecting newly-planted trees). The rust is not unsightly IMO, since it weathers to a dark brown, and the rough surface makes it easier for plants to cling.
The biggest problem I had with the wire cages was where to store them between seasons. My cages were made from pre-cut 10' sections of welded wire sold by the local big box warehouse. That was convenient, since those folded into a 3' diameter cage (a good size for indeterminate tomatoes) with no cutting necessary. They worked wonderfully, and the wide openings allowed easy access. But to store them required a 10' X 5' area, where they would not be an eyesore... and in the end, that was the reason I stopped using them. I now trellis tomatoes on the same post/rod/string system that I use for beans, but modified to support more weight.
I HATE cemented in metal!!!!!!!
Also, consider that we Should be rotating our beds, so moving such monstrosities would be difficult, a LOT more difficult that moving the goat panel tomato cages, OR the ones that my MIL made, round pieces from cattle fencing, secured by one metal fencepost each, removed/stored after the growing season.
The instructions that I posted is to create two 1/2's of a cage that are tied together. After season you stack all halves. Perhaps just storage is your problem?